Day 36 Luther Beer Mugs

Day 36 saw us visit, by train, a small town about 100 kms from Berlin. In wonderful DB (German Rail) style the trip only took 40 minutes. At the station, after a little bit of language trouble as we asked directions, we caught a bus to the centre of a town called Wittenberg. For those who know their reformation history you will know that Wittenberg was the place made famous by a monk who rediscovered the gospel – Martin Luther.

We had a great day in Wittenberg. Firstly it is a really beautiful town with buildings that date back not only 500 years to the Luther period, but some hundreds of years before that. Luther came to this, then remote, town as a scholar and priest. We visited the Castle Church where he nailed his famous 95 thesis to the door. He challenged established church doctrines, especially the idea of selling indulgences which was a way of essentially raising money for the church by offering ‘get out of hell’ passes for you and your dead relatives (for the right price). It was great to see the door, which since the 19th century has had these famous words inscribed onto the outside in steel.

We visited houses in town and the parish church where Luther preached. This church began in the 13th century. Later we visited Luther’s house, which was not at all what we expected. Now a museum, Luther’s house was originally a monastery. Large collections of original letters, books pamphlets, his pulpit, and so much more meant our day was long and fascinating. Richard, who should know better, was a little astounded by all he didn’t know.

The day was only marred by thoughts of what Luther would think of much than now goes on to keep the tourist buses rolling in. Luther beer, Luther tea towels and Luther beer mugs were a small part of the ‘Luther junk’ that was on sale. An annual weekend festival is held to celebrate the day Luther married his ex-nun friend, and the organisers encourage thousands to come in fancy dress. The trivialisation of faith that Luther railed against has returned as the trivialisation of Luther. So sad!

All that said – to stand next to the actual table where Luther gave his famous ‘table talks’ was a wonderful and rare privilege.