Thursday, June 19, 2008

Day 60 Venice- a one off



Venice is just a 90-minute train trip from Verona and we approached it with mixed anticipation. Some had advised us that Venice was the most unique and romantic city we would ever visit. Some insisted that we should not miss the special opportunity of a gondola ride. Others had warned us that it is a sad, smelly, sinking city that is dying under the weight of the tourist throng. We were also warned that everyone gets lost in Venice. We arrived in Venice not at all sure what to expect.
Firstly Venice is strange and yet wonderful. Built on a series of islands, by a peace-loving group of people who fled persecution, Venice is one of those great accidents of history. It seemed unreal to see a city where the roads are canals and boats dominate rather than cars. We walked through narrow lanes and alleyways and over numerous bridges for about 45 minutes, as we headed from the station to St Marks Square. In spite of the poor signage we didn’t get lost and enjoyed walking past markets, shops and people just going about their daily business. However arriving at St Marks and the famous square of the same name was an assault to our senses as it was packed with thousands of noisy, camera clicking, tour group following tourists. We escaped almost immediately onto a local ferry and headed out of town to visit some of the other islands. Later in the day we returned and enjoyed a long walk through ‘suburban’ Venice where we could see how the locals coped with everyday issues like drying the clothes and kids playgrounds where there is no grass, just pavers and aerial space. Later in the afternoon we again confronted the slightly less crowded tourist centre and checked out the amazing old church and square.

We ended our day with another ferry ride this time we travelled the entire length of the Grand Canal passing gondolas, taxis, private launches and garbage barges. We passed on a gondola ride not because we are cheapskates, but for us it felt a bit too much like a theme park ride.

So… is Venice the perfect romantic destination or just a very old version of a horrible modern phenomenon- a canal development? Well we experienced both. We came away enriched by the visit and yet glad to be returning to dry land and less tourists in Verona.

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